Your Unit’s Tiles

Tiles at Waves

The tiles inside your Unit and on your balcony are your responsibility and you should check them regularly and maintain them.

They will mostly look after themselves so it is not a big task.  Failure to maintain them can cause you significant expense.

Maintenance involves ensuring that pooled water is swept to the nearest floor drain. Any missing grout should be replaced as soon as possible.

In your shower areas, always make sure that all water drains away after use. This is important to minimise water seeping into the screed layer beneath the tiles.

If you see any yellowing or oozing near the silver strip at the bathroom doorway, you have a problem that will only worsen.

Here is a sample of the problem area:


Tile Edge Oozing

The primary objective should be to minimize water build up and pooling on the shower floor. This can be achieved by wiping up any residual water with an old towel after each use. If the shower floor drains as designed and all water drained away within say, 15 minutes, then towel drying the floor should not be needed and you are probably not seeing any of the tell tale signs described above.

Another suggested action is to have the tile grout lines in the shower stall treated with a quality sealant, thus minimising water penetration.

If your bathroom floors have degraded to the degree of the one shown above, then the only viable fix is a complete re-tile of the floor, which would entail new membrane applications, new screed and tiling. Several Units have already gone through this process and at the same time have fully modernised their bathrooms.

The money spent will always be recouped any time the unit might be sold.

Problem Area

Problem Detail


Please do not feed the birds.  Yes, they are great to see and hear, but they should not be encouraged.

Doing so can attract them back to other residents balconies where they can leave a mess on the balcony rail or glass.

They can feed themselves in Nature.


Tiles Choice

Please vote (A or B) on your favourite replacement tile for our front stairs and podium level.

Both tiles are rated non-slip for outside walkway areas.

email your vote to the Committee at

Votes closed 11th July 2022 and the majority (about 95%) voted for Tile-A which is named "Canyon Ash"

Thanks to all who provided their input.

Balcony Doors

Your Balcony Doors

The doors to your balcony have an aluminium strengthener bar at the opposite end to the door handle.

This should not be used as a handle to slide the door, as I found out.  The beam is there to weatherproof and strengthen our doors in the case of a cyclone, or strong winds. It is only held in place at the top and bottom by two small stainless steel screws.

I used it once too often to slide the door open, and the lower screw came out of its anchor point.  Luckily I was able to re-attach the beam at the bottom by carefully locating the screw in its original anchor hole.


Alum. Brace Beam

The small stainless steel screw is at the bottom. Just under that is the hole for roller height adjustment.

New Oven

Fagor Thermostat Unreliable

The thermostat on our original Fagor oven was proving unreliable.  Time for a new oven.

We searched several stores and on-line and settled on a Westinghouse replacement (model WVE614SC).

As we did with our dishwasher, we found the new one at Good Guys.

We collected it at the North Lakes store. luckily it fit into our vehicle.


Installation WVE614SC

This is one item that needs a licensed electrician to remove the old one and install the new one. The unit has the wiring direct connected to a mounting block inside the back of the oven.

Upon removal of the old oven, we discovered a few discarded cigarette butts from the original installers. Thanks guys for being so messy.

The Sparky had to re-route the power wiring from one side of the back of the cabinet to the other and the new Westinghouse had it connecting on the left (when looking at the oven front). It is a tight fit, and there was not an extra 15mm between the back of the new oven, and the rear wall. Trying to install the new oven with its cable crossing over the supply to the cooktop meant the new oven would not push all the way back as needed. Re-routing the oven wiring solved that issue.


Oven Model

New Dishwasher

Goodbye Fagor Dishwasher

Our dishwasher has been failing to shut off the water supply when done washing. Luckily it has a over-full sensor that detects a high water level, and then pumps out the water in the base.  The slow leak of water getting past the infill solenoid would cause an overfull condition about once per hour. To manage this, I would need to turn the tap off after each time we used the washer. And on again to do the next wash.

Time for a new dishwasher.

Hello Bosch SMS40E08AU

Looking around at many brands, we settled on the Bosch model: SMS40E08AU. This we bought at Good-Guys.

Installation is fairly easy. Once I had the new hoses and power fed through to the undersink cabinet, the new unit slid cleanly into place.

The old Fagor model went to the metal pile at the Clontarf tip.



Microwave Replacement

Failing Fagor

Our original Fagor microwave oven has been loosing its heating power and taking longer to heat/cook foods.

We wanted a new one that would fit into the same space and match the built-in look of the old Fagor.

With the tip from Fiona and Ned, we started hunting for the Artusi models. They had replaced theirs some time back and it looked close to the original.

The one we found was the Artusi AMO31TK model. This was ordered from AppliancesOnline and due to stock shortages and shipping delays, it took nearly two months to arrive.



The installation instructions that came with the unit were minimal. They left out some important details.

After unpacking, we found 4 small plastic bits that were not mentioned anywhere in the manual. These turned out to be important, and NEEDED to be screwed onto the base of the new unit.

The oven came with a paper template, showing where the rear bracket needed to be screwed to the floor of the cutout space. Yes, you need to remove the existing one from the original oven and use this new bracket as it fits into a small slot in the back of the new oven.

The install instructions mention removal of all packing items and plastic. The important point here is that the new unit comes wrapped in a thin plastic wrap that covers the vents in the top of the oven.  Be sure to peel all the plastic off so that vent holes are open.

Plug in the cord, switch on, then slide the new oven into place. You may need to jiggle it a little to ensure it connects properly with the rear support bracket.  Screw the front hold-down screw in place, and you are done.



Repainting Your Unit

If you are planning to repaint your unit, as we have recently done, then there is one great TIP you should consider.

That is, to have your painter use a gloss/semi-gloss paint on the Laundry walls.

This helps prevent the nasty build up of lint from the clothes dryer. Walls can now be easily wiped over to remove the lint.

Some Air Conditioners-Pumps

AC Drainage Pumps

When cooling, air conditioners create condensation which must be removed. In most AC units in Waves, this removal is by gravity drainage into a few ducts around the apartments.

However, in some segments of the building, there are no convenient ducts and the units will have drainage pumps installed.

The pumps have been, very inconveniently, installed in the ceiling, or into wall cavities just below the AC units with no access for maintenance/replacement. Holes need to be cut into the walls to access the failed pumps.  AC units thus far with the problems have been those in the living rooms. Those in the bedrooms seem to all have the gravity drainage piping.  Even with the gravity drainage, some maintenance is desirable each year to ensure there is no blockage due to build up of dust and lint.

When a pump fails, water overflows into the wall cavity and ends up ruining your carpets/flooring. Hopefully your contents insurer will cover the resultant damage.

For those with pumps, the best solution is to have a serviceman install an external pump where needed. The below shows an example of one within Waves. Another option in some cases is to add a gravity fed drain pipe to a laundry drain where the laundry is directly behind the air conditioner wall unit.

Water Heater Anode Replacement

Your Hot Water Unit

Waves was built with Vulcan electric storage hot water systems. This shows a typical unit.
These heaters contain a sacrificial magnesium alloy anode, that is designed to corrode away ahead of any corrosion attacking the tank itself.

Vulcan and plumbers recommend replacing the anode each 5 to 8 years. These HWS units, if original, are now 9 years old. I know the anode in mine has never been replaced, so I recently set about the task.

Heater Top

The New Part

I got the new anode from Preece’s Plumbing in Clontarf. It was about $62 with GST.

Then I read on line the tools needed. A 27mm socket was recommended, and there was also a suggestion that a 28mm Tap Spanner would work. The Tap spanner would have worked, but for the turning bar being too thin, and just bending when I tried undoing the existing anode. The 27mm socket with half-inch drive is needed along with a socket handle and some form of extension so you can get enough force to unscrew the old anode. ( If you get brave and plan to change your HWS anode, you can contact John Griffiths U15 to borrow the socket and handle )

Items/Tools You Need

  • the new anode
  • a hacksaw
  • small screwdriver
  • strong G-Clamp
  • the 27mm socket, handle and handle extender
  • heat resistant gloves
  • some old rags

The Part

The Sockets

Cut New Anode

The new anode will likely be too long to be able to slide into the HWS as the ceiling height restricts it. I determined that if I cut off 25 cm I could get it in.
Use a hack-saw, and NOT an angle grinder. If you try using an angle grinder you will create a massive problem with burning sparks of magnesium. The magnesium will burn and you could create mayhem.

There is also an option to buy a segmented anode which will be easier to install where clear space above your heater is not available. These are like a string of sausages and can be fitted more easily if need be.  However, I suspect getting the old anode out will be a job where several cuts will be needed.

The whole replacement process tales some preparation and planning. At least 24 hours before you plan to do it, (or get it done by a plumber/handyman), turn off the electricity to the HWS in an attempt to get it a little cooler for the job.

On the day of the job, turn off the supply line to the HWS and the master valve to your unit.

Release the pressure in the piping by turning some taps on…

Too Long

Remove Old Anode

Once you loosen and unscrew the old anode, it will lift straight up. But will likely hit the ceiling.
Now you need your G-clamp to hold it up so you can make a cut in it. Use the gloves as it is still hot. Lift it up until near the ceiling and place the clamp at the heater top to hold it up.

Next, hacksaw through the old anode being careful not to cut the whole way. When it is nearly cut through, it should be able to be bent at the cut and broken off. Then lift the clamp with the remainder of the anode out.

You are now ready to insert the new one. Add some thread-tape to the new rod, which may have thread tape on it already.

Clean around the thread inside the heater with a rag, and slide the new rod in. Tighten firmly.


Extended Socket Handle

All Done

You can now turn the water supply back on, and check for any leak. Don’t forget to turn the power to the HWS back on.

This image shows the corrosion on the old anode. It is not too bad, and should look like this or worse. Its purpose is to prevent corrosion of your tank and your heater element.

Old corroded anode

Time taken

From start to finish, this task took less than an hour, and that was with some learning along the way.

Remember to start cooling your HWS the day before.

Note the date of the change on the bung on top of the heater. That will help in the future.


John Griffiths, U15

Disclosure: IANAP (I Am Not A Plumber)

Flexi Hoses

Hoses May Need Replacing

You will have flexi hoses in your Unit. These are susceptible to bursting as they age. A burst hose will cause damage and insurance woes.

The at-risk  “FLEXI HOSES” are those that connect to basin and sink mixers, and to toilet systems . The replacement of these hoses has been recommended by Chubb Insurance each 10 years.

Time to Renew

The Body Corporate strongly recommends that you arrange a licensed plumber to attend to all flexi hose replacements in your unit by the end of 2020.

Please email the BC when your unit has had its hoses replaced and we shall record the details.

This will assist minimise our Strata Insurance and perhaps save you the $1,000 insurance excess in the event of a claim.

Under Sink

Isolation Valves

It is also recommended that additional isolation valves be installed where flexi hoses connect to your water supply at the wall.

These should be where the flexi hoses connect to wall piping, usually in your bathroom, laundry and kitchen cabinets.

These small inexpensive valves offer extra protection enabling rapid isolation of failed hoses and are recommended by all insurers and plumbers.



Isolation Valve

Your Air Conditioner

If you still have your originally installed air conditioner, then it will be a Fujitsu.
The units are Owner responsibility and as such you are advised to ensure they are covered by any contents insurance you may have.

These air conditioner units should be serviced every year or two to keep them in good working order.

AGM 2019 for Owners

Owners Voting Papers Sent

By now you should have received an email and a printed copy of the meeting motions, and supporting documents.

The meeting is scheduled for Thursday August 22nd at 10:00am at 31 Portwood Street, Redcliffe.

If you cannot make it to the AGM, then please vote ahead of time by completing your voting paper and submitting it to Capitol.

Owners are encouraged to attend, though this is not necessary.

First New Paint Completion

Higgins Coatings are expected to complete the major painting works today, Aug 20 2019.

There may be a couple of painters around in the next few days to complete some minor issues.

Once all those issues are attended to we will update this article.

It has been a major effort by all present Committee and we have had a great deal of good advice and support from the Project Manager, Mr George Englert.

First New Paint

Higgins Coatings commenced work yesterday on the repainting of the Waves Building.

Today, May 14th 2019, the first new paint was applied and this was on the balcony ceiling on an upper level apartment.

Please take note of the painting schedules as posted around the building and in particular, look out for any notice that may be placed under your front door. These notices from Higgins will arrive about 48 hours before work commences in and around your balcony. Please read them carefully.


New Roof Membrane Completed

Owners will be happy to know that the application of a new roof membrane has been completed, and just in time for Easter, 2019.

The process involved removal of failing membrane by using a diamond grinding machine and taking the roof back to the base concrete.

Next, a primer coat was applied, then the new membrane coat, followed by two ultra-violet protecting top coats.

The coating products were all supplied by Adcrete, a local industry, and the preparation and application was done by Vertex Access Systems.

Now, with care and re-inspection, the new membrane should last at least twenty years.

Shower Door Fix

Several Owners have mentioned that they have had issues with shower doors within Waves. I know that we did in our unit.

I had three different tradesmen come and try fix our shower doors. The third time we got  LUCKY 

The problem was that the gap between the fixed glass panel, and the door edge began binding. that made a loud scraping noise when opening/closing the shower door.

Then it got so bad that the door would not close fully and water splashed out onto bathroom floor.

My take was that the shower door hinges had moved, and that caused the gap to close. This was also the conclusion reached by the first two tradesmen. They tried adjusting the door hinges, but that was only partially successful, and did not last long.


Third Time Lucky

The third tradesman called was quick to see the cause and the solution. I explained the efforts made by the previous two tradesmen and how that had not helped.

Number Three explained that the problem was that the  fixed  pane was the cause. It has slowly crept away from the wall and had closed the gap.

The fix was easy, and he refused to accept any payment for his attendance.

Below I share what needs doing and how to do it....


This shows the area after it has been fixed.

The fixed pane creeps away from the wall and closes the gap. Then it binds on the shower door pane.

It is best to remove the door before trying the step below. However, for your first try you may decide to skip this step.

Removing the door carefully does make the whole job simpler.

The silver plastic covers at the top and bottom hinges will simply click off with a small screwdriver.

Then you can use a bigger screwdriver to free the door pane, and carefully place it somewhere safe.

The plan is to move the fixed panel back toward the wall, by tapping it carefully whilst protecting the edge of the glass. You you not want to break it.

As mentioned above, it is easier with the door out of the way.

Use a soapy solution, or CRC or WD40, applied around the edge of the fixed panel. Be sure to lubricate both inside and outside the shower.

Next, use a sharp flat blade, such as from a Stanley box cutter or similar, to loosen the seal around the glass. The blade should be pushed into the joint between the glass and the plastic seal strip. Again, do inside the shower, and outside. This is done so the glass is able to be moved with the next step.

Use a piece of softwood, or several layers of towel to protect the glass edge. Then tap it lightly on its edge to have it slide back into its original place. Start with light taps. Use a rubber mallet if you have one, but still protect the glass edge.

This should result in resetting the gap to the shower door, and fixing the issue.  I hope you can get the shower door back in place in one piece.

 Disclaimer: This advise is given freely with no responsibility on the part of the writer.