Your Unit Appliances
Here we show the three types of Garage Remotes that you might have been issued. Also we show what battery they may use.
When your battery gets low, the indicator light that shows when a button is pressed will blink. That shows it is time for a new battery.
This shows the original style of the Garage Remotes. Ignore the orange colour of the buttons as the more recent PTX5V2 versions had grey button areas. This style takes a CR2032 lithium button battery.
This shows the second type of remotes we issued. They are a good design but the attachment can fail at an early stage.
To open for battery (Type A23 battery) replacement, see the small access screw on the back. The screw may be beneath a label.
This shows the third style of remotes we have provided. These are more robust and have a sliding protective section.
Access to change battery ( CR2032) is the 4 small screws on the reverse.
The thermostat on our original Fagor oven was proving unreliable. Time for a new oven.
We searched several stores and on-line and settled on a Westinghouse replacement (model WVE614SC).
As we did with our dishwasher, we found the new one at Good Guys.
We collected it at the North Lakes store. luckily it fit into our vehicle.
This is one item that needs a licensed electrician to remove the old one and install the new one. The unit has the wiring direct connected to a mounting block inside the back of the oven.
Upon removal of the old oven, we discovered a few discarded cigarette butts from the original installers. Thanks guys for being so messy.
The Sparky had to re-route the power wiring from one side of the back of the cabinet to the other and the new Westinghouse had it connecting on the left (when looking at the oven front). It is a tight fit, and there was not an extra 15mm between the back of the new oven, and the rear wall. Trying to install the new oven with its cable crossing over the supply to the cooktop meant the new oven would not push all the way back as needed. Re-routing the oven wiring solved that issue.
Our dishwasher has been failing to shut off the water supply when done washing. Luckily it has a over-full sensor that detects a high water level, and then pumps out the water in the base. The slow leak of water getting past the infill solenoid would cause an overfull condition about once per hour. To manage this, I would need to turn the tap off after each time we used the washer. And on again to do the next wash.
Time for a new dishwasher.
Looking around at many brands, we settled on the Bosch model: SMS40E08AU. This we bought at Good-Guys.
Installation is fairly easy. Once I had the new hoses and power fed through to the undersink cabinet, the new unit slid cleanly into place.
The old Fagor model went to the metal pile at the Clontarf tip.
Our original Fagor microwave oven has been loosing its heating power and taking longer to heat/cook foods.
We wanted a new one that would fit into the same space and match the built-in look of the old Fagor.
With the tip from Fiona and Ned, we started hunting for the Artusi models. They had replaced theirs some time back and it looked close to the original.
The one we found was the Artusi AMO31TK model. This was ordered from AppliancesOnline and due to stock shortages and shipping delays, it took nearly two months to arrive.
The installation instructions that came with the unit were minimal. They left out some important details.
After unpacking, we found 4 small plastic bits that were not mentioned anywhere in the manual. These turned out to be important, and NEEDED to be screwed onto the base of the new unit.
The oven came with a paper template, showing where the rear bracket needed to be screwed to the floor of the cutout space. Yes, you need to remove the existing one from the original oven and use this new bracket as it fits into a small slot in the back of the new oven.
The install instructions mention removal of all packing items and plastic. The important point here is that the new unit comes wrapped in a thin plastic wrap that covers the vents in the top of the oven. Be sure to peel all the plastic off so that vent holes are open.
Plug in the cord, switch on, then slide the new oven into place. You may need to jiggle it a little to ensure it connects properly with the rear support bracket. Screw the front hold-down screw in place, and you are done.
When cooling, air conditioners create condensation which must be removed. In most AC units in Waves, this removal is by gravity drainage into a few ducts around the apartments.
However, in some segments of the building, there are no convenient ducts and the units will have drainage pumps installed.
The pumps have been, very inconveniently, installed in the ceiling, or into wall cavities just below the AC units with no access for maintenance/replacement. Holes need to be cut into the walls to access the failed pumps. AC units thus far with the problems have been those in the living rooms. Those in the bedrooms seem to all have the gravity drainage piping. Even with the gravity drainage, some maintenance is desirable each year to ensure there is no blockage due to build up of dust and lint.
When a pump fails, water overflows into the wall cavity and ends up ruining your carpets/flooring. Hopefully your contents insurer will cover the resultant damage.
For those with pumps, the best solution is to have a serviceman install an external pump where needed. The below shows an example of one within Waves. Another option in some cases is to add a gravity fed drain pipe to a laundry drain where the laundry is directly behind the air conditioner wall unit.
Waves was built with Vulcan electric storage hot water systems. This shows a typical unit.
These heaters contain a sacrificial magnesium alloy anode, that is designed to corrode away ahead of any corrosion attacking the tank itself.
Vulcan and plumbers recommend replacing the anode each 5 to 8 years. These HWS units, if original, are now 9 years old. I know the anode in mine has never been replaced, so I recently set about the task.
I got the new anode from Preece’s Plumbing in Clontarf. It was about $62 with GST.
Then I read on line the tools needed. A 27mm socket was recommended, and there was also a suggestion that a 28mm Tap Spanner would work. The Tap spanner would have worked, but for the turning bar being too thin, and just bending when I tried undoing the existing anode. The 27mm socket with half-inch drive is needed along with a socket handle and some form of extension so you can get enough force to unscrew the old anode. ( If you get brave and plan to change your HWS anode, you can contact John Griffiths U15 to borrow the socket and handle )
The new anode will likely be too long to be able to slide into the HWS as the ceiling height restricts it. I determined that if I cut off 25 cm I could get it in.
Use a hack-saw, and NOT an angle grinder. If you try using an angle grinder you will create a massive problem with burning sparks of magnesium. The magnesium will burn and you could create mayhem.
There is also an option to buy a segmented anode which will be easier to install where clear space above your heater is not available. These are like a string of sausages and can be fitted more easily if need be. However, I suspect getting the old anode out will be a job where several cuts will be needed.
The whole replacement process tales some preparation and planning. At least 24 hours before you plan to do it, (or get it done by a plumber/handyman), turn off the electricity to the HWS in an attempt to get it a little cooler for the job.
On the day of the job, turn off the supply line to the HWS and the master valve to your unit.
Release the pressure in the piping by turning some taps on…
Once you loosen and unscrew the old anode, it will lift straight up. But will likely hit the ceiling.
Now you need your G-clamp to hold it up so you can make a cut in it. Use the gloves as it is still hot. Lift it up until near the ceiling and place the clamp at the heater top to hold it up.
Next, hacksaw through the old anode being careful not to cut the whole way. When it is nearly cut through, it should be able to be bent at the cut and broken off. Then lift the clamp with the remainder of the anode out.
You are now ready to insert the new one. Add some thread-tape to the new rod, which may have thread tape on it already.
Clean around the thread inside the heater with a rag, and slide the new rod in. Tighten firmly.
You can now turn the water supply back on, and check for any leak. Don’t forget to turn the power to the HWS back on.
This image shows the corrosion on the old anode. It is not too bad, and should look like this or worse. Its purpose is to prevent corrosion of your tank and your heater element.
From start to finish, this task took less than an hour, and that was with some learning along the way.
Remember to start cooling your HWS the day before.
Note the date of the change on the bung on top of the heater. That will help in the future.
John Griffiths, U15
Disclosure: IANAP (I Am Not A Plumber)